The
worldwide fame enjoyed by the wines of Champagne is the result
of tireless work achieved with courage and passion by characters
who now belong to the History of Champagne: Heidsieck, Clicquot,
Pommery, Bollinger etc... Luckily for us, they had successors.
Pierre
Lanson himself does not worship his name, but he wanted
the name of his Brand to be recognised throughout the world.
Several millions of bottles per year! Their elaboration
alone is not enough, they also need to be sold intelligently!
The negociant business has perhaps become an atavism of
Champagne since the great fairs of Champagne of former times?
Our geographic situation at the crossroads of Europe is
an incentive to leave our boundaries !
In
direct contact with the clients :
"My
father insisted that we learnt to follow each stage in the
elaboration of our wine: I myself even went as far as the
client's table... I even tried out the profession of barman
at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London".
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Pierre
Lanson: a continual task to
link Champagne to his clients
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For
about thirty years, this man lived far from home for one day in
three in order to "present his House in its best light".
He liked both commerce and contact. As for "public relations"
(which everybody now revels in) "let us use them only when
they have a direct effect on sales! ".
Pierre LANSON was amongst
those who managed to break into new markets for the wines of Champagne.
"This began during the war in Algeria, when he managed to
deliver LANSON in military lorries on the condition that he paid
for the petrol... and the GMC lorry of the period consumed an
enormous amount!" His memory lights up and reveals further
details. His most wonderful memory? "One thousand cases sold
in a one-off deal to a the "Champs-Elysées" night-club
in ORAN in 1956!" His pride? The Caribbean market, in particular
the DOM-TOM (French overseas departments). In 1958 in Guadeloupe,
Lanson sold two hundred cases, and the whole of Champagne sold
barely one thousand. "Several years later we sent up to 180,000
!"
However, Pierre Lanson has
other reasons to be happy. "In twelve years of hard work
in Central Africa, we moved from twenty thousand
bottles per year to two hundred and eighty thousand at the beginning of the 1970's!"
All of this represents a great deal of energy, time and effort,
for results, which are sometimes disappointing but never useless:
the establishment and the fame of a Brand relies on continual
and in-depth work achieved over the long term.
Fortune and misfortune
No
regrets! With time, misfortune becomes fortune. And the words
of Pierre Lanson will, therefore, sparkle. We accompany him everywhere,
lingering and amusing, briefcase and flute-glass in his hands,
acting as a friendly envoy for the prosperity of Champagne.
We land with him, beneath the noise of machine guns at Lomé
(Togo), where the aeroplane collects a load of escaping ministers.
You can imagine him waking up with a start in his hotel bedroom
and throwing his shoe to frighten a rat. We follow in his steps
to the mining town of Ciudad Bolivar (Venezuela), on the banks
of the 0rinoco, where numerous clients were former convicts who
had escaped from Cayenne. The busts of Napoléon, which
adorn the Negociant Houses, remind us of the Corsican origins
of these distant French cousins.
We smile at the memory of
a hotel reception in flames, where all of the occupants gathered
together in pyjamas (some even in flowery ones), expressing their
anxiety in a variety of languages.
"What a marvellous profession
it is to be a Champagne negociant! With this "incredible"
prosperity, have we not lost sight of the constraints of international
commerce?" For Pierre Lanson, the difficult situations,
which Champagne sometimes encounters are a pressing invitation
to resume the world tours more actively than ever before. Both
present and future customers demand that the glory of this King
of Wines should be sung regularly by the authentic people in all
places where Champagne is enjoyed.
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Bernard
de La Giraudière is a gentleman: in another century,
he would have joyfully fought with a sword or crossed the
seas. However, in our century, he has chosen to devote his
vitality to exporting the most beautiful jewel in French
viticulture.
A passionate choice
After
several years at the CIVC (Inter-professional Committee
for the wines of Champagne) Bernard de Nonancourt co-opted
him to participate in the successful adventure of Laurent-Perrier.
"After several years at the CIVC (Inter-professional
Committee for the wines of Champagne) Bernard de Nonancourt
co-opted him to participate in the successful adventure
of Laurent-Perrier. "There is champagne and Champagne.
I chose to serve the legend rather than take the easy option,
and I did it as much for my own amusement as for the "challenge".
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HRH the
Princess Michael of Kent receives
a charming representative from the House of Laurent-Perrier
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The distinction of the
recruiter was apt: speaking English as he lives and breathes,
our man was perfectly equipped to establish Laurent-Perrier well
over and beyond the French speaking regions. "For twenty-five
or twenty-six years, I did not take much time to look behind me!
Laurent-Perrier which produced a million bottles in 1966, now
elaborates several million per year, of which over half are exported..."
Marvellous memories
Some
anecdotes? Indeed, they are the bread of life of this exporter.
The journey is a never-ending chain of small misfortunes, which
are not always funny !
Bernard de La Giraudière
recalls several memories: in an aeroplane at Venezuela, he made
an emergency landing at Maracaïbo: the pilot had forgotten
to fill up with petrol before taking off...
Arriving much later in his
room in a top quality hotel in Fort-de-France, he had to negotiate
for his bed with another traveller that the hotel manager had,
in his absence, mistakenly installed in his place...
In Mexico, an American burst
into his hotel bedroom seeking refuge: gunshots from a nearby
riot made his own room inhospitable...
In Paraguay, he discovered
a pleasant customer with a Castillian Christian name and a German
surname who had discretely gone into exile from Germany in 1945...
And so on...
A noble ideal
Bernard
de La Giraudière interrupts this agreeable chain of memories
and becomes serious. "Above and beyond everything, which
is futile, our aim as globe-trotters of champagne, is to fit into
different cultures and traditions: we must understand others".
His extensive experience in this has taught him that often,
"the image of Champagne precedes the taste of Champagne".
From which the importance of the prosperity of Champagne to
continue to develop towards the excellent quality of a pale golden
wine, and to maintain its aura. "This is the meaning of
our role at the heart of the Great Brands of Champagne, which
are the driving force of the entire profession". For
Bernard de La Giraudière, if the only logic was the trading
account, this would be tyrannical and, in the end, impoverishing.
"Laurent-Perrier would never have accomplished all that it
did for Champagne, if we had only thought in financial terms".
There is no reason to add (because it is implicit) that without
pleasure, it would not have achieved all of this! Anachronistic,
Bernard de La Giraudière? Surely not. Rather an idealist
like all those who are passionate about what they do. "The
most beautiful gift that we can offer to the Champagne community
is to maintain and spread its values. We are both the guarantees
and the standard bearers !"
Rémi
Krug is part of the fifth generation of a family, whose
name evokes the prestige of Champagne. A globe-trotter of
the House, he is attached to the continuity of a family
(as much as his brother Henri), which is devoted to elaborate
wine for the "happy few". That means a wine, which
does not depend on an infatuation with transient fashion,
but which, like the Appellation, seeks to be eternal. This
wine is essentially exported and contributes, therefore,
to the prestige of the A.O.C. |
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Presentation
of Krug Grande Cuvée in the country of the rising
sun
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Journeys with an educational
aim
""The
voyage is a tradition in Champagne". It is also a necessity
for an exceptional luxury product, which needs Ambassadors like
any reigning sovereign. The ancestor, Johann-Joseph Krug, a native
of Mayence created the House in 1843 and was both a great producer
and an extensive traveller. Today, we can go further and faster,
but we must always accompany the bottle to give life and intensity
to the long chain going from the vines to the pleasure of the
senses.
"I do not sell directly
in that I do not take orders. My mission is above all educational:
inform about the details of the origin of the taste and the realities,
which prepare for the magical moment of tasting". Rémi
Krug enumerates the various categories of his colleagues like
an actor evoking his different audiences. First of all, you must
motivate "the sales force" and provide them with
the information necessary to improve their efficiency, motivation
and powers of persuasion. Afterwards, "the professionals",
that is to say, the chefs, wine-waiters, wine shop owners, wholesalers,
all of these decision makers must be convinced. The journalists
must be seduced while fully respecting their freedom of expression.
Finally, "the carefully chosen consumers, lovers of beautiful
things, wine-lovers". Rémi Krug does not hide
the joy he obtains from exchanges with these friends. "I
take great pleasure in all of that". As if to excuse himself,
he adds: "It is true that I am the ambassador of a wine,
which only provokes smiles. I have the good side of things!"
With a detailed preparation
The
detailed preparation of his journeys takes up almost half of his
business time. The routes, the meetings, the meals and even the
menus are planned in advance. "I make an effort to use
my time wisely. The objective aims to reply to many requests for
information rather than to directly encourage sales".
Rémi Krug insists on the important investment in time necessary
for promoting a brand of Champagne, which he places "at
the top of the small group of prestige cuvées".
A bottle of "Krug Grande Cuvée" spends
six years in the cellar before being finally ready for drinking,
and a vintage bottle waits even longer. This slow maturing process
makes up part of the nobility of Krug Champagne and finally results
in its purchase and its consumption.
Maintaining the "club" spirit throughout
the entire world
"We
have hundreds of thousands of clients around the world, perhaps
even one hundred and fifty thousand..." And, Rémi
Krug, in order to explain this community that he animates, "a
refined elite", describes it as varied but united by
the same taste. The pleasure of wine is always the same and is
expressed by the same words: "This pleasure can be compared
with art, which reunites different people over and above reason
and rationality".
The strength of this bond
enables you to overlook the inconvenience of the price. Nevertheless,
sometimes someone chooses to mention this side of things. Rémi
Krug then points out with a courteous assurance that "the
price is in fact very quickly forgotten when you discover the
emotion of enjoying a great wine !"
You will have now understood
that the House of Krug does not conduct a flashy form of advertising,
which is (whatever the publicity firms may say) an impersonal
form of communication. The development of its image is undertaken
by personal contacts. Geographically, his journeys take Rémi
Krug to all of the countries of the European Community, The United
States, Australia and South-East Asia. Finally, we are envious
of his task as animator of this network of happy relationships,
this global village of refinement and good taste, born from the
Champagne vineyards.
Our globe-trotters of modern
times do all that they can to show themselves worthy of their
famous predecessors. In this way, they contribute to maintain
and develop the fame of their wines and of the Champagne appellation
throughout the whole world.
Interviews conducted in
November 1992.