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CHAMPAGNE
: DES VIGNES AU PLAISIR
Des années
après, prêtes à être expédiées
11. Special very low dosage blend
(less than 6 g/l)
Ultra-brut Laurent-Perrier - for the champagne drinker
in search of purity
There is a champagne bottle that stands
out for its naturalness, one could even say its "nudity". The
Laurent-Perrier initials, sumptuous midnight blue label and silver foil
that is used only for the ultra brut, all evoke that extreme purity that
awaits the drinker's tastebuds.
For François Philippoteaux, who participated in its creation with
Bernard de Nonancourt and Alain Terrier, the ultra-brut is in a category
of its own. It stands out for its asceticism and authenticity. A blend
only of years of great maturity, this exceptional champagne is characterized
by the absence of any dosage or disgorgement. No liqueur d'expédition
is added to this totally pure wine, with a sugar content below one gramme
per litre.
While the concept remains unusual, it is not new. At the end of the nineteenth
century Mathilde Emilie Perrier, the widow of Eugène Laurent, produced
a special champagne that was christened "Grand Vin Sans Sucre"
(Great Wine without Sugar). This was a bold move given that at that time
champagne was served almost exclusively as a dessert wine, and that most
people considered sweetness as part of its attraction. This champagne
appeared on the menus of the great restaurants in Paris, amongst the most
expensive on the list, and was drunk by well-informed connoisseurs, curious
to try something new. It was in 1975, when nouvelle cuisine was beginning,
that the house of Laurent -Perrier had the idea of relaunching this unique
style of champagne. "Bernard de Nonancourt, Alain Terrier and myself
devised, in the tasting room in Tours-sur-Marne, a wine that would inspire
the imagination. With wines of wonderful maturity at our disposal, we
reinvented the original sugarless champagne to create a wine that could
accompany modern cuisine. The first blend was released in 1981".
In an age of purity
The
ultra-brut remains what is referred to as a "niche" for
Laurent-Perrier, i.e. a blend of which the annual production does
not exceed 150,000 bottles. Even if the house remains convinced
that the cuvée has a promising future, it remains in the
domain of the informed champagne drinker, enjoyed by a select group
of open-minded epicureans, as was the case with the cuvée
rosée (pink champagne) that was also initiated by Laurent-Perrier.
The "Ateliers Ultra-brut" are select tasting committees,
of which Jean-Paul Kauffmann is a devoted enthusiast, that meet
at his shop, "L'Amateur de Cigare" (The Cigar Lover),
to drink ultra-brut. Journalists and a creative set join great chefs
in a search for new taste experiences in a form of escapism that
seeks out unknown sensations. |
Laurent-Perrier's ultra-brut is enjoyed by an informed group of connoisseurs |
Changes in the balance of our diets
have participated in the evolution of our tastes. Ultra-brut thus has
a place in the "sociology of taste". This evolution concerns
ideas, such as forms of artistic expression, and champagne has both a
spiritual and aesthetic role, paradoxically teasing our sensuality. Far
from diluting sensations, the exuberance of the ultra-brut acts as a stimulant
and enlightener. Let us hope that ultra-brut will soon be served without
the recommendations of sommeliers and fine wine stores, that the education
of taste will continue, and that this very special champagne will be drunk
outside of exclusive circles of cigar smokers.
Interview by Frédérique Masson in 2000
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